The classic caravan holiday is a summer thing – warm days and balmy nights by the seaside or in the depths of the countryside. And having a caravan as a holiday home is usually thought of in terms of golden light, green grass and a nice drink of something in the shade of an awning.
But that’s really only one season in the year. However much we may grumble about it at the time, one of the fine qualities of the British climate is its variability. Not that this is always a bad thing – the winter can be a quieter, more peaceful time away from the crowds and a crisp, clear, cold winter’s day, or curling up inside while the wind lashes away can be just as homely and comfortable as the pleasant days of summer. And an advantage of owning a caravan as a holiday home is being able to enjoy it whenever you want, whatever time of year.
But winter can also be a challenge, whether you’re on a short break or you own a holiday home. But it doesn’t have to be. Follow our guide to caravanning in the winter, and you’ll be snug, safe and cosy until the sun comes round again.
Not so many years ago, static caravans weren’t really built for winter. They were for living in for a few weeks – months at most – at a time in summer. Ease of construction, simplicity and durability were the main design considerations and keeping cool and ventilated would be more likely to worry campers than staying warm. Old caravans were thin-skinned with single-glazed windows and rattly metal frames that leaked heat and were prone to draughts. Heat leaked away through roofs, walls and vents. Lino floors were cold to the touch. Walls could run with condensation and heating was usually little more than a gas stove.
That is not the case these days, with modern static caravans being much more sophisticated, insulated and ‘house-like’ in construction. But you will probably find that caravans still need more thought and prep for winter than a permanent dwelling. For instance, with an eye to summer living, most caravans have large windows for maximum light and to enjoy the view. Great for summer, but these present a wide area for heat loss when things turn chilly.
Even the best-built caravans with all the latest cladding and multi-layer construction will struggle to match the insulation levels of a brick-built house with a loft full of lagging. Poor insulation will just see any heat inside seep away (adding to the effort and cost of maintaining temperature) and will lead to draughts.
If you are planning to live in your caravan year-round, then consider improving the standard-fit insulation with extra cladding. This can be fitted to the roof and walls and various types and materials are available, depending on the area, size, shape and performance you want. This can be a very costly installation but will deliver huge benefits of comfort in winter as well as savings on heating.
Check your windows and doors. Most recently built static caravans have double-glazed windows and double-skin doors, which are a far cry from the thin glass in an aluminium frame and a wooden Dutch door of the past. Look for loose or broken fittings, perished seals, signs of moisture getting between the layers and other signs of damage or age. If your windows or doors are past their best or just of old design, then swapping them for modern ones will also reduce heat loss and draughts.
Some traditional methods of keeping warm in winter can be used effectively in caravans. Heavy drapes and curtains over windows and doors will also reduce the inevitable heat loss and cut down on draughts. Modern ‘thermal curtains’ have heat-trapping linings. Blankets, duvets and throws for both beds and sofas can keep you warm even if the inside of the caravan is a bit chilly, and electric blankets can also be an efficient and effective way of staying warm. Thicker rugs and carpets are an inexpensive and personalised way of adding more heft to your caravan’s floor. As well as keeping your feet off the cold of the floor, this all adds a layer of insulation.
Speaking of which, don’t forget the floor is a source of heat loss. Because a caravan sits off the ground, cold air can circulate underneath, wicking away heat and also promoting draughts and underfloor condensation. Insulation under laminate flooring can really reduce a significant zone of heat loss. Many caravans have skirting covering the gap between floor level and the ground. This also acts to improve the insulative properties of the caravan. It can also stop your pipes from freezing (more of which later).
As well as keeping heat in, you can do more to generate it in the first place. Many static caravans will just have a single gas heater for warmth – enough to dry wet clothes after a beach trip or keep the chill out on a summer’s night, but not great for the depths of winter. Gas heaters and fires are also a ‘wet heat’, generating water vapour which can lead to condensation problems. Electric wall heaters don’t have that problem but struggle to put out a lot of heat into a large space. Both sorts of heater will also prove to be very expensive to run over the course of a winter, and the gas heater will quickly drain your gas bottles (if that’s where your caravan gets its supply).
Underfloor heating can turn one of a caravan’s largest cold sinks – the floor – into a great source of warmth, but this can be very costly to install and isn’t exactly cheap to run. A more affordable option could be something like an electric portable rug heater, which slips between a rug and the floor.
Portable electric halogen and ceramic heaters are much more efficient, and radiate more heat into the space, than the traditional gas heater. A full gas fireplace is another very effective but high-cost option. It will cost a lot to fit and install but will drive cold from the inside of your caravan with ease. Perhaps worth considering if you will be living in a caravan in winter for many years to come?
As mentioned above, a caravan sits above ground level. Because static caravans are portable, a lot of their service connections (electricity, gas and water) are above ground rather than buried under it as for a house. In winter, this is especially a problem for the latter, as the water pipes and plumbing are not insulated from overnight frosts, let alone longer freezes.
This can be a real hazard for caravans that are unoccupied in winter, as the water doesn’t circulate in the pipework and the caravan itself is cold, thus making freezing more likely. This is why non-residents should be draining down a static caravan for winter when they leave for the last time in a season.
Adding skirting to shelter the space under your caravan’s floor can keep the windchill off the pipes and the small amount of heat gained from inside through the floor can keep the space warm (or at least, not cold) enough to protect pipes over a frosty night.
All possible pipes and drains should be fitted with lagging to keep out the cold. As well as water supply lines, the drains (especially sink, shower and toilet U-bends where, by design, water sits) should be a priority. Boiler drains/condensate traps can also block with ice where they pass through the wall from inside to outside.
Condensation, mould and moisture used to be real enemies of living in a caravan through winter. Modern static caravans are much better than their ancestors of decades past in this regard, thanks to improved insulation and ventilation. But it can still raise its head, especially in areas with high moisture (such as shower/bath rooms or near the stove) or poor airflow (such as cupboards, lockers and under mattresses or rugs). As mentioned, gas heaters can exacerbate this by putting a lot of water vapour into the atmosphere.
Insulation and double glazing will stop moisture from condensing out on walls and windows, but you don’t want to hermetically seal your caravan so it becomes a damp sauna! Vents in the window frames and skirting boards and cowls in the roof will allow fresh air to circulate and carry away moisture. It’s especially important to crack a window or open a roof vent when cooking or taking a bath or shower. Find the balance between heat retention and airflow for a comfortable environment.
If condensation and high humidity remain a problem, a dehumidifier can work wonders, even if only run for a few hours each day. Beware of cheaper chemical or piezo-electric types that promise great things but only work under ideal conditions (usually warm ones – not usually found during a British winter). Proper mechanical ones with a compressor will cost more but will draw far more moisture out of the air. They really are the best method of stopping damp in a caravan over winter. The chemical types, packed with desiccant, can be very effective at keeping cupboards and drawers dry, though.
The classic caravan holiday is a summer thing – warm days and balmy nights by the seasid...
Staying Warm on Winter Caravan Holidays